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We can help your business or home have a battery installed with the following battery storage incentive programs:
When a business or residence installs a battery in New Jersey, New York or Nationwide, the owner is able to file a federal income tax credit. The federal income tax credit, as of 2024, is 30%.
Learn MoreState, utility and regional incentives for battery storage in NJ and NY changes over time. Please contact us to discuss the latest incentives available.








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How long can a home battery run your house? For most New Jersey homes, the honest answer is anywhere from a few hours to several days — and the difference comes down to what you keep switched on, not which brand you buy. Whether you're in PSE&G, JCP&L, or Atlantic City Electric territory, the same nor'easter can knock power out for an afternoon or the better part of a week, so realistic runtime expectations matter before you size a system. This breakdown walks through the actual math, three real-world outage scenarios, and the moves that stretch one battery through a long restoration.
As of August 17, 2026: the runtime figures in this article are transparent, arithmetic-based typical ranges — not measured statistics — and current battery models still follow the same capacity-divided-by-load math described below.

Official sources (last checked: August 17, 2026):
A typical 13.5 kWh home battery runs essential circuits for roughly 12–24 hours, whole-home backup with central air for a few hours, and — paired with solar — essentials for days at a time. There is no single runtime number, because backup duration is simple division: the battery's usable energy (kWh) divided by your home's average draw (kW). The same battery that carries one house through a full night dies in three hours next door, purely because of what each family left running.
That honest framing matters in New Jersey, where restoration times vary enormously by storm. A summer thunderstorm in PSE&G territory might mean a two-hour interruption, while a coastal nor'easter through Monmouth or Ocean County can leave JCP&L crews rebuilding lines for days. The sections below give you the runtime math, real scenarios, and the levers you control — so you can plan for both.
Claim: The same 13.5 kWh battery can back up one New Jersey home for a full day and another for only a few hours — the difference is load, not battery quality.
Evidence: Backup runtime is usable energy divided by average draw. Essential circuits (refrigerator, lights, internet, a gas furnace blower) typically total well under 1 kW combined, while a central air conditioner by itself draws several kilowatts when running. That multiple-of-load difference, not brand or chemistry, is why installers size systems from a load calculation instead of quoting one runtime number.
Three numbers determine backup runtime: usable capacity (kWh), power output (kW), and your home's load. Get comfortable with all three and every spec sheet — and every runtime claim — becomes easy to sanity-check.
Usable capacity is the energy the battery will actually deliver, which is what matters for runtime. Manufacturers publish usable rather than gross figures on modern spec sheets, but the number varies by model — our 2026 battery guide comparing Powerwall 3, Enphase IQ, and FranklinWH lines these specs up side by side.
Power output caps how much your battery can run at once, no matter how much energy it holds. Spec sheets list a continuous kW rating plus a short surge rating, because motors — well pumps, sump pumps, AC compressors — briefly demand several times their running draw at start-up. A battery with a nearly full tank can still trip offline if a compressor's start-up surge exceeds its output rating, which is why careful installers check locked-rotor amps on the specific equipment being backed up.
Your load profile is the variable you control, and it swings runtime more than any equipment choice. A house running a refrigerator, LED lights, and Wi-Fi sips a few hundred watts; the same house with central air and an electric water heater active can draw ten times that. Runtime planning is really load planning.
Claim: Two batteries with the same advertised size can deliver very different real-world backup, because usable capacity and power output are separate specs.
Evidence: Manufacturers publish usable (not gross) energy plus a continuous kW limit and a short surge rating. A battery can hold plenty of energy yet still shut down if a compressor or well-pump start-up surge exceeds its output rating — which is why a proper design reviews both the kWh spec and the start-up demands of the specific appliances being backed up.
Most essential appliances draw a few hundred watts or less, while anything with a heating element, compressor, or EV connector draws several kilowatts on its own. The table below uses typical, approximate nameplate-style ranges — your own equipment labels and monitoring app will give exact figures.
| Appliance | Typical draw (approx.) | What it means for a 13.5 kWh battery |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator (cycling) | Roughly 100–200 W averaged over time | Could run for days on its own |
| LED lighting + Wi-Fi/router | Roughly 50–150 W combined | Minimal impact, even overnight |
| Gas furnace blower | Typically a few hundred watts while running | Winter heat is one of the easiest loads |
| Sump pump (intermittent) | Roughly 800–1,500 W while pumping | Fine in bursts; watch it during heavy rain |
| Well pump | Roughly 1–2 kW running, with a large start-up surge | The surge rating matters more than the energy |
| Central air conditioning | Typically several kilowatts while running | Cuts runtime from a day to hours |
| Electric water heater | Typically 4 kW or more while heating | First breaker to switch off in an outage |
| Electric dryer | Roughly 5 kW | Skip laundry until power returns |
| EV charger (Level 2) | Roughly 7 kW or more | Can empty the battery in an hour or two — pause charging |
The sleeper insight is the always-on background load. Routers, modems, chargers, and standby electronics each draw little, but they draw it continuously — and over a 12-plus-hour outage, a constant few hundred watts quietly consumes a meaningful share of the battery's usable energy.
Claim: Your always-on background load, not your single biggest appliance, often decides how long the battery lasts overnight.
Evidence: Big loads like dryers run for minutes to an hour, but routers, modems, standby electronics, and a cycling refrigerator draw power continuously for the entire outage. Over 12 or more hours, a constant few hundred watts consumes a meaningful share of a battery's usable energy — which is why installers look at baseline load in monitoring apps or smart-meter data, not just the appliance list, when estimating runtime.
One 13.5 kWh battery delivers three very different outcomes depending on the night: a few hours with central air running, most of a day on winter essentials, and multiple days when solar recharges it. Here is the same division math applied to each — redo it with your own numbers and it holds.
With central air cycling plus normal household loads, average draw can easily reach 3–4 kW — and 13.5 usable kWh divided by 3.5 kW is roughly four hours. That is the honest trade-off during a July thunderstorm outage: full comfort for the evening, or a cooler-but-tolerable house and a battery that lasts through the night. Many homeowners split the difference by raising the thermostat several degrees and letting the AC cycle far less often.
A gas furnace makes heat from gas; the battery only powers the blower, igniter, and thermostat. Add the refrigerator, some lights, and internet, and average draw often lands well under 1 kW — dividing 13.5 kWh by 0.6–0.9 kW gives roughly 15 to 22 hours of heated, lit, connected house. For much of coastal New Jersey, where winter nor'easters drive some of the longest restorations, this is the scenario a single battery handles best.
With rooftop solar attached, the battery becomes renewable: panels recharge it each morning, and essentials can keep running day after day in fair weather. Cloudy post-storm days produce less energy, so recharge may be partial — but even reduced production extends runtime meaningfully. If your panels predate your battery, see our guide on adding home battery storage to an existing solar system.
Claim: A winter outage with a gas furnace is usually easier on a home battery than a summer outage with central air.
Evidence: A gas furnace produces heat from gas; the battery only powers the blower fan, igniter, and thermostat — typically a few hundred watts while running. Central air conditioning must run a multi-kilowatt compressor to produce cooling. Same battery, radically different draw — though homes with heat pumps or electric resistance heat flip this equation, which is why the heating fuel question is one of the first things a designer asks.
To stretch battery backup through a long outage, follow these seven steps in order:

Two settings help before the outage even starts. A backup reserve setting keeps a chosen percentage of the battery held for outages rather than daily use, and most major systems offer a storm-alert mode that charges to full ahead of forecast severe weather — worth enabling anywhere in New Jersey that sees regular nor'easters or summer squalls.
Claim: Simple load-shedding during an outage extends runtime more than any equipment upgrade you can make mid-storm.
Evidence: Runtime is usable energy divided by load, so removing one multi-kilowatt load (an electric water heater or EV charger) has a bigger effect than any setting change. Battery monitoring apps display current draw and state of charge in real time, so homeowners can see the remaining-runtime estimate improve immediately as heavy loads are switched off.
One battery with an essential-loads panel is better for outage security on a budget; two or more batteries are better for whole-home comfort backup. Which side you land on depends on what you actually need running during a New Jersey outage — and for most families, the essentials list is shorter than they expect.
An essential-loads subpanel is a second, protected panel that holds only your critical circuits. A licensed electrician moves the refrigerator, heat, sump pump, lights, and internet onto it, so the battery is never asked to start or carry loads beyond its continuous and surge ratings. The result is longer runtime by design — the heavy loads physically cannot drain the battery, because they are not connected to it.
Adding a second unit doubles usable energy and raises total output, and most major systems are modular, so capacity can be added later as budget allows. Start with the runtime you need for essentials, and expand if you find yourself wanting AC or more coverage — our home battery sizing guide walks through how to pick the starting point.
True whole-home backup usually means multiple batteries plus load management — smart controls or relays that automatically shed the largest loads when the grid drops. Even large multi-battery systems typically exclude or manage electric water heaters, EV chargers, and sometimes AC, because unmanaged, those loads turn days of backup into hours.

Claim: For most New Jersey homes, an essential-loads subpanel delivers more outage security per dollar than adding a second battery.
Evidence: A backup subpanel is an electrical scope-of-work item: a licensed electrician relocates the critical circuits so the battery carries only loads within its continuous and surge ratings. That prevents the overload shutdowns and rapid drain that come with whole-home connections, and it extends runtime by design — without the equipment, permitting, and wall-space requirements of a second unit. Capacity can still be added later because major systems are modular.
To estimate your runtime, find your daily kWh use on your utility bill, subtract loads you would shed in an outage, and divide the battery's usable kWh by the remaining average load. It takes five minutes:
National averages — like the household electricity figures published by the U.S. Energy Information Administration — only frame the ballpark, because usage swings widely with heating fuel, AC habits, pool pumps, and EVs. Your own bill is the better predictor, and a professional site assessment refines it further with circuit-level loads and start-up surge checks.
Claim: Your own utility bill predicts your backup runtime better than any national average.
Evidence: Household electricity use varies widely with heating fuel, AC use, pool pumps, and EVs, so an average figure — like those published by the U.S. Energy Information Administration — only frames the ballpark. A PSE&G or JCP&L bill shows your actual monthly kWh; dividing by days gives your real daily energy need, and subtracting sheddable loads gives a personal outage load you can divide into any battery's usable capacity.
Anything with a heating element or compressor: central air conditioning, electric water heaters, electric ranges and dryers, EV chargers, and well pumps. Each can draw multiple kilowatts, so a single one left running can cut runtime dramatically. They are the first things to switch off when the grid goes down.
Yes — a gas furnace only needs its blower fan, igniter, and thermostat, typically a few hundred watts while running, which makes winter heat one of the easiest loads a battery carries. Heat pumps and electric resistance heat are a different, much heavier story and need a specific design conversation.
Open the battery's app: every major system shows state of charge and current household draw in real time, and most display an estimated time remaining that updates as you switch loads on or off. Check it before nightfall and shed loads until the estimate covers you through the night.
Yes — runtime is usable kWh divided by load, so removing one multi-kilowatt load like a water heater, EV charger, or dryer has an outsized effect. It is the single most effective action you can take mid-outage, and the app shows the improvement in the runtime estimate immediately.
Your own bill gives the accurate answer: divide the monthly kWh shown on your PSE&G, JCP&L, or Atlantic City Electric statement by the days in the billing cycle. The U.S. Energy Information Administration publishes national household averages, but homes with electric heat, pool pumps, or EVs can use far more than average — so plan backup runtime from your bill, not a benchmark.
The reserve setting decides how full the battery is the moment the lights go out: a higher reserve holds more hours in the tank for backup but leaves less capacity for daily cycling savings. Pick the split based on how often your area loses power, and enable the storm-alert mode most apps offer — it charges the battery to full ahead of forecast severe weather, which is worth it in outage-prone parts of New Jersey.
A circuit-level load calculation turns "it depends" into a runtime number you can plan around — the same division math in this article, run with your home's real loads instead of typical ranges. PowerLutions, one of New Jersey's top home battery installers, performs exactly that assessment: identifying the circuits you need in an outage, checking their running and start-up draws against a battery's ratings, and sizing usable kWh to your measured baseline.
If you want to know how long a battery will actually run your house — not the average house — call 732-987-3939 or email info@powerlutions.com for a quote and a load-based runtime estimate.
Claim: A circuit-level load calculation turns "it depends" into a runtime number you can plan around.
Evidence: During a site assessment, an installer identifies which circuits you need in an outage, checks their running and start-up draws against the battery's continuous and surge ratings, and sizes usable kWh against your measured baseline load — the same division math this article walks through, but with your home's real numbers instead of typical ranges.
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PowerLutions LLC
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